Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China

doi:10.1016/j.culher.2017.02.018

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	Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China
	Mai, Huijuan 1,2; Yang, Yimin 2; Jiang, Hongen 2; Wang, Bo 3; Wang, Changsui 2
刊名	JOURNAL OF CULTURAL HERITAGE
	2017-10-01
卷号	27 页码:116-124
关键词	Headwear Jinzi Flax Ramie Animal Glue Astana Cemeteries
DOI	10.1016/j.culher.2017.02.018
文献子类	Article
英文摘要	Headwear research is an integral part of costume study, which is regarded as a cultural symbol of human society. In China, the lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) is called as Jinzi, whose production information is little known. This paper focuses on the analysis of materials and manufacture of Jinzi, found in Astana Cemeteries (dated from about the 3rd to the 9th centuries C.E.), Turpan Basin, Xinjiang, China. The fibers of Jinzi were identified by FUR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), Light Microscope Examination and Drying-Twist Test; while the black pigment was characterized through Raman Spectroscopy. Proteomics was conducted to analyze the proteinous glue. The results suggested that three Jinzi samples were made from flax mixed with ramie fibers, and one Jinzi sample was made from silk. All of them were painted with carbon black, and animal glue originated from bovine or caprinae was determined in two Jinzi samples. The different manufacture of Jinzi were probably related to the status of the occupiers of tombs. This is a unique report of the scientific analysis about traditional headwear in ancient Xinjiang. It is not only significant complement to the historical literature, but also the utilization of flax and ramie and the wearing of Jinzi shed light on the exchange of the species and culture in ancient Turpan area. (C) 2017 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.
WOS关键词	LINUM-USITATISSIMUM L. ; FTIR SPECTROSCOPY ; XIAOHE CEMETERY ; BINDING-AGENT ; IDENTIFICATION ; FLAX ; CANNABIS ; FIBERS ; HISTORY ; FOOD
WOS研究方向	Archaeology ; Art ; Chemistry ; Geology ; Materials Science ; Spectroscopy
语种	英语
WOS记录号	WOS:000413844400012
资助机构	National Natural Science Foundation in China(41172164 ; Youth Innovation Promotion Association of CAS(2013281) ; 41672171)
内容类型	期刊论文
源URL	[http://124.16.247.212/handle/311034/8010]
专题	古脊椎动物与古人类研究所_图书馆1
作者单位	1.Chinese Acad Sci, Inst Vertebrate Paleontol & Paleoanthropol, Lab Vertebrate Evolut & Human Origins, Beijing 100044, Peoples R China 2.Univ Chinese Acad Sci, Dept Archaeol & Anthropol, Beijing 100049, Peoples R China 3.Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Reg Museum, Urumqi 830000, Peoples R China
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Mai, Huijuan,Yang, Yimin,Jiang, Hongen,et al. Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China[J]. JOURNAL OF CULTURAL HERITAGE,2017,27:116-124.
APA	Mai, Huijuan,Yang, Yimin,Jiang, Hongen,Wang, Bo,&Wang, Changsui.(2017).Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China.JOURNAL OF CULTURAL HERITAGE,27,116-124.
MLA	Mai, Huijuan,et al."Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China".JOURNAL OF CULTURAL HERITAGE 27(2017):116-124.